Wipe the Suds Away

I don't mean to burst my own bubble, really, but this first week of class has been more one of downs than ups. Part of that, I think, has just been getting back into the swing of rigorous coursework. But there's more to it. So here are the lowlight highlights:

Sunday was laundry day. Exciting. I know. But it was a little too exciting when the cap to my laundry detergent got cracked and a puddle of lavender scented soap seeped its way to existence in the bottom of my wardrobe. I caught it before it made too big of a mess but the clothes I had in my mesh hamper got soaked through with the sudsy substance. I rinsed them out as best I could, but I'm still not entire sure what to do with them. What I think happened with the cap is I'd had the bottle of detergent in the bottom of my hamper and when I set it down after getting back from putting my dirty laundry in the wash, I must have let the hamper fall a little too hard, so the cap cracked. On the bright side, my room smells a lovely scent of lavender now.

Monday was the first day of classes and it as well as it could have. I managed to find all of my classrooms, the professors were interesting to listen to, and I've found several friends in each of my classes. But the excitement of the first day was overshadowed by my uncertainty over which classes to enroll in. I was torn between taking a 20-credit class that I think would be pretty easy but is a prerequisite for a class I want to take next semester or taking two 10-credit classes that are likely to be very difficult but extremely interesting and very relevant to my specialism (Machine Learning). Plus, like I said in my last post, the registration system here works very differently from what I was used to back in the States. I "selected" my courses via an online course planning system but had no confirmation I was actually registered for the classes I wanted. Which is probably okay since I changed my mind so much anyway. Finally, yesterday (21/9), I got confirmation of my classes for the year. In the end I decided to make things hard for myself. I went with the two challenging 10-credit classes. Also, for the class I wanted to take next semester, I have been able to get the prerequisite waived since the 20-credit class is similar to one I took as an undergraduate. And just to make things even harder for myself, I'm still planning to attend the lectures for the 20-credit class and do the coursework for it where I'm able--time permitting--because I think the review will be good preparation for the more advanced class next semester. All that being said, I know that I will learn a lot and it will totally be worth it! ...As long as I don't fail anything.

With all the math intensive classes I'm taking this semester, I wanted to spend Tuesday and Wednesday reviewing the many topics and equations I've learned over the years but seem to have floated from my mind -- a bit like bubbles. I remembered a lot of the basic concepts, but the problem sets/exercises I forced myself to do were challenging, frustrating, and eventually resulted in me moving on to something else. I don't feel as comfortable with the math as I feel like I should feel, but I'm determined to press on and challenge myself, and I'm wondering if this might just be a case of impostor syndrome. I think I'll just have to have another go and take each problem a little slower in smaller chunks so I don't overwhelm myself. After all, I have until April/May to prepare for exams. Yep, that's right! My exams--even for Semester 1 classes--are all at the end of Semester 2. Welcome to the UK University system! So if you're planning to visit me between March and June... I'll be in the library.

That's about it for this week. Sorry I don't have any pictures. I didn't think you'd want to see an off-white, opaque puddle of laundry detergent. But now that I've wiped the suds away, I'm left with a very clean and very nice smelling wardrobe. In another sense, once I've wiped the suds of a lazy summer from my mind and can get back to a clean slate, ready to be scribbled all over, I'm ready to learn. And if the suds start creeping up out of the shower drain, I just have to remember where I am--I'm in freaking Edinburgh!!--and I'm left with a cleaner, shinier, more perfect picture of what I'm doing and why I'm doing it.

Stay informed. -NLD

My First Week in Edinburgh, Part II

Where's Part I, you ask? It's in my previous post, The Lull? Uh, bye: Before the Storm, but I couldn't be bothered to change the title. So here's the continuation of my first week in Edinburgh.

Tuesday 13/9
After all the walking I did and big meal on Monday, I used Tuesday morning to sleep in and relax. It's quite possibly one of the last times I will be able to do so all year, so I appreciated being able to take things a little slower. Especially since that afternoon I went to the Postgraduate Welcome event, where current and former students talked about what it means to be a student at the University of Edinburgh. It was good to get that perspective but it was also a little daunting; from what they said--one of them an Informatics student--it's definitely going to be a stressful year. But I've already made (and caught up with) so many wonderful friends, that I know we can help each other through it and come out the other side stronger, more capable human beings... with a higher blood-alcohol content. I say that mostly in jest, but with all the pubs and bars in Edinburgh, it might be a fairly accurate assumption. Also, that night I went to one of the bars and met my friend from Norway for a trivia night and a couple drinks. Despite many of the questions being meant for residents of the UK, we won 2nd place and a bottle of wine! Woo!

Wednesday 14/9

Informatics Forum interior

After staying up rather late the night before, I wasn't particularly keen to get up for the Informatics Welcome event but did anyway. And I was glad I did! It was wonderful to meet so many people doing the same course as me and interested in the same specialisms. It makes registering for classes a little scary, especially since the registration system here is so different from at my old university. I didn't "officially" pick my classes until a few days ago, and even now (as I'm writing this on Saturday) I'm not so sure I'm registered. They tell us it's all done automatically through the online system I've been using but I haven't seen any official confirmation or anything about class size or if there's a limit to the number of students who can take it or what. And from the people I've talked to it sounds like they're almost as confused as I am. I'll just hope for the best and stay flexible.

Thursday 15/9
I woke up planning to climb Arthur's Seat but one look out the window at a wall of fog halted those plans. So instead I went to lunch with a friend I bumped into on my way to the restaurant. Later that afternoon I went to a talk on the UK job market and applying for jobs. (Don't worry, mother. I'm still planning to come home after my studies.) The fog was pretty much gone by the time the talk got over at 16:30 so I decided I would go climb Arthur's Seat but wanted to be back in time for Mid-autumn Mooncake festival held in the house common room. So I ended up essentially running up Arthur's Seat and all around Salisbury Crags. I did so because I wanted to have plenty of time to just sit and enjoy the view and sunset from the highest point in Edinburgh. Instead of trying to describe it, here are some pictures:

My building from Arthur's Seat.

Arthur's Seat from my building.

Birth Place of Modern Geology -- It is here, from the years 1726-1797 that James Hutton looked at these rock formations
and said, "Huh, that's interesting." And determined that the rocks had been formed from molten material.

From the top of Arthur's Seat

Friday 16/9
Again I took it pretty slow in the morning but was jolted into action when the fire alarm went off... and kept going off. It wasn't a drill. In addition to student housing, my building has apartments people can rent for short amounts of time. And it was apparently in one of these apartments that somebody burnt some toast. So everybody--many of us still in our pyjamas--had to stumble outside and wait for the fire brigade to come and tell us it was okay to go back inside. The rest of the day was much less eventful. I just went to a meeting with my Personal Tutor for Informatics, which really is just a fancy name for an advisor. Then that night in the common room, the RAs put on a movie night with free pizza! The movie, The Angels' Share, was very Scottish and quite good.

Saturday 17/9
Today I hiked up Arthur's Seat again with a bunch of people from my building. Even though I'd just done it a couple days ago, the weather was perfect! Plus, I'm not sure how much exercise I'll get the rest of the year so I need to get it while I can. We came down from Arthur's Seat a different way, so I still got to see something new--the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel. I'm planning to go to a movie--Kingsman: The Secret Service--a bit later in the Old College Quad and after that maybe a jazz bar with some friends. But that's about it for today.

The white spiky building on the left is Scottish Parliament,
on the right is Holyrood Palace, where the Queen stays when in Scotland,
and in the background you can see Edinburgh Castle on the left and Carlton Hill on the right.

You're all caught up! With classes starting on Monday, I'm not sure when I'll next be able to post. I'm hoping to put an update up every couple of weeks but, if I get swamped with coursework, it might be longer than that. But until whenever that is...

Stay informed. -NLD

The Lull? Uh, bye: Before the Storm

I've been in Edinburgh for almost a week now and there's barely been time to take a breath. So here's the blow-by-blow of what I've been up to since arriving in Edinburgh.

Sunday 11/9

View of Edinburgh Castle from The Elephant House --
I wonder if it's this exact view, from my exact seat,
that inspired Hogwarts. Probably not. But one can dream.

After breakfast at a little place just down the road, I went to pick up my Biometric Residence Permit (BRP), open a bank account, wander around the International Welcome event, and then explore campus. There's a lot of construction going on right now, which is rather annoying, especially because one of the main Informatics buildings is one of those being worked on and it won't be done until after I'm done (Dangit! Guess I'll just have to stay for a PhD. Just kidding. Or am I? Probably. I don't know. I'll figure it out eventually). Despite the scaffolding and noise, I'm still awed by the architecture and old buildings, not just on campus, but all over the city.

Once I'd gotten a good feel for the campus, I wondered up towards the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle. I went as far as the castle ticket booth but didn't fancy waiting in line or spending £16.50 so I turned around and went off in search of a café. A very specific café. The Elephant House--birth place of Harry Potter and all around very nice place. After a cuppa tea and some short cake, I went back to campus and explored the library. After that it was time to head back to my flat for a quick mo before the residence hall rules and regulations meeting. After that a few of us went out to a pub just around the corner. And what do ya know, one of the other students I met there is also from Minnesota! Small world!

Monday 12/9

I started my day by going to register with the National Health Service (NHS). After that I spent much of the rest of the day catching up with a friend from my Norwegian class at the International Summer School in Oslo. I didn't know it until about a month ago, but she is also getting her Master's at the University of Edinburgh. Really small world! She showed me around north of the train station and after wandering up and down Princes Street and Rose Street, we stopped for ice cream next to the Edinburgh Festival Wheel, which was in the process of being taken down. From there we walked up to Carlton Hill, which has one of the best views of Edinburgh. It was very windy so we didn't stay too long and instead found some coffee to stave off the afternoon slump. Both sufficiently caffeinated, we each went our own way, I to pick up a few things for my flat, and she to pick up a bus card.

For dinner that evening I went to a residence hall event celebrating the start of Eid al-Adha, an Islamic holiday honouring Ibrahim's (Abraham's) willingness to sacrifice his son for God. The food was excellent and very spicy--something many of the international students less accustomed to spice struggled with, though I commend them for powering through. Better than the food was the conversation and lesson on what the holiday is about, given from both from a Christian and Muslim perspective. It showed that despite what the media presents to us and the twisted ideals of radicals, these two religions, seemingly so often at odds with one another, are not so different. In fact, they are based on many of the same people and beliefs and share many of the lessons scriptures or stories are meant to teach us. In the context of the community I'm living in, all the students here are from many different backgrounds and religions, yet we all share this space and are here to support one another. In a wider context, we all share this planet and must do what we can do preserve it for future generations. It will not come easy. We will have to make sacrifices, whether it's sacrificing a postgraduate student's valuable time to help keep shared living spaces clean, sacrificing your pride to admit that maybe you were wrong, sacrificing your life to protect those you love, or innumerable other sacrifices. Sacrifice is part of living, of leading a peaceful, fulfilling, effectual life. But it's never easy, which is why there's so much to learn from Ibrahim/Abraham and why I know this year of graduate school will be one of the most challenging of my life. As challenging as it will be for the sacrifices I will have to make (probably mostly sleep), I know that it will also be one of the most rewarding.

Since classes start on Monday, I had hoped to get caught up to today. But this post is long enough already so I'll leave it here. So, lucky you! You can expect at least one more post before my life is consumed by coursework. Just know, from this post and the post to come, that there is no lull before the storm. With the people I meet and adventures I have, I will make the most of my free time in Edinburgh before it gets swallowed up by reading and rainy weather. You can probably expect the wrap-up to my first week in Edinburgh either Saturday or Sunday. Until then...

Stay informed. -NLD

Adjustments

So here I am in Edinburgh! A few notes on how I got here:

• My flight from Iceland to London was uneventful, the immigration officer was nice, and getting to King's Cross from Heathrow was cheap (£3) and a breeze. Piccadilly line: MVP!
• Because getting to King's Cross was so easy, I ended up being there around 3 hours early. It's always a good idea to allow for extra time, but this was a little excessive. And I wasn't able to catch an earlier train because I'd purchased a non-exchangeable ticket. That being said, it's hard to complain because, this being a train from King's Cross, it's a little bit like the Hogwarts Express.
• The train ride was everything I could have imagined and more. It was comfortable, had free wifi, and the scenery out my window seat was incredible. Whatever image you have in your mind of the English countryside, make it greener, more beautiful, pop in an extra village or two, and you'd have my view. I can see why Tolkien loved his country so much that he based his idyllic Shire upon it.
• Getting from Waverley Station to my flat was rather stressful. My train pulled in at 21:28 and I was supposed to collect my keys by 22:00. With two 22kg bags and a large backpack, just getting myself and the 50kg of luggage to the taxi rank was a test of my strength, nerve, and determination. I managed to flag a taxi without knocking over too many old ladies.
• Tired and harried, I arrived in reception at 21:58, though I needn't have worried. The RAs hung around well after I got there. Had worse come to worst and there be nobody there when I arrived, security could have let me into my flat.
• I proceeded to unpack EVERYTHING. Because there's no sleep to be had when suitcases keep screaming at you.

                

View from my wee flat

My wee flat

As nice as my view is, there were a few things that initially discomfited me. For one, my en-suite bathroom is tiny. Like, the toilet and sink are practically in the shower, tiny. I don't have to share it with anyone, though, so it's a fair trade-off. Also, since I knew I'd be getting in so late and didn't want to take up space in my suitcase with bedding, I ordered a bedding pack from University Accommodations. It was only £25 but, even so, I was taken aback by the quality of the fabric--quite scratchy! Now that I've slept in it a couple nights, it's better, but I still might make an IKEA run. The other thing about my bedding that I wasn't very pleased with is that it only came with a fitted sheet, pillow and pillowcase, duvet and duvet-cover--no top sheet. Sleeping directly under the duvet is, apparently, fairly common in Europe. Though I wasn't very fond of the idea to start with, it does make making my bed much easier in the morning and I'm sure I'll come to like it just as much as, if not more than, what I'm used to. It'll just be an adjustment--one of many, I'm sure, to come in the coming months.

As insignificant or as scary as they might be, it is these adjustments that I find most exciting because they offer the greatest opportunities for new experiences and personal growth. If you don't know what makes you uncomfortable, you'll never know what your boundaries are or if they can be expanded. If you're not needing to adjust your lifestyle or way of thinking, you're not learning. And if you're not learning, what's the point?

I don't want this post to get too long, so that's all for now. I'll try to post again in a few days with more updates on what I've been up to since arriving in Scotland. Until then...

Stay informed. -NLD

We are Travelers

In my last post I made fun of being a tourist. In this post I give you an alternative to being a tourist: be a traveller. But before I get to the meat of this post: I MADE IT TO EDINBURGH! Woohoo! More to come on that in my next post.

To round out my time in Iceland, I spent my last full day on a tour of Iceland's Southern Coast. It was definitely my favourite thing from the trip. The tour guide was phenomenal, I saw three magnificent waterfalls, got drenched by the North Atlantic, and saw a glacier that may not exist in a few years.

The tour was run by Iceland Guided Tours with a minibus -- a (nice!) change from the large bus tours run by Reykjavik Excursions and Iceland Excursions. What really made it fantastic was the tour guide. He was very knowledgable, not just on the main sights, but little tidbits about Iceland, its history and natural landscape, wildlife, and people. He was also funny and incredibly passionate about his country and nature, which I appreciated. My hope is to convey that passion and enthusiasm to you.

Skógarfoss

Seljalandsfoss

Urriðafoss

Though the beauty and power of the first two falls above is certainly something to behold, the third waterfall, Urriðafoss, trumps them. Seeing the Urriðafoss was an unscheduled stop on our tour. It is the most voluminous waterfall in Iceland, and because of that, several people and organizations want to harvest its power for electricity. Doing so would redirect the river and make the falls run dry. Not that the proposed power plant couldn't be decommissioned and the falls restored, but it would undoubtedly be many years before anyone gets to enjoy the falls, as I have. For that reason, I urge anyone reading this to consider the value of natural beauty over a desire for profit, not just in Iceland but wherever you live. Don't just consider. Talk about it. Vote for public officials who will support the preservation and protection of our natural resources and planet.

Just 10 years ago, where I stood
when I took this was covered in ice.

On a similar note, another stop on our tour was the Sólheimajökull glacier. This was perhaps one of the most disappointing legs of the tour. Not just because it was raining--I was prepared to march the kilometer, through the pouring rain, to get right up next to the glacier. The most disappointing thing is that the other members of my party were not as willing to get a little wet to see up-close a natural beauty that is quickly disappearing. And it seems there is nothing we can do to stop it. The glacier retreats, on average, about 50 meters a year and is not being replenished. It could be gone entirely within 20 years. It might be too late to save Sólheimajökull, but it is not too late to save other natural landmarks. The U.S. and China ratifying the Paris climate deal is a good step towards doing that on the national scale. But most of the work will have to be done by people like you--talking about it, voting, donating, anything you can do to preserve this planet so that the next generation has a chance to enjoy it as we have.

Enough of my harping. It's time you know how to be a traveler. Part of it is not just seeing the sights, but truly appreciating them. The other part can be summarized by something our guide said as he passed a car on the highway.

"We are not tourists; tourists drive too slow. We are travelers. Tourists are always on their way home. But travelers are always on their way to the next destination."

-- Howser, travelers' guide

And with that, I'll let you ponder your next destination until my next post on my arrival in Edinburgh. Until then...

Stay informed. -NLD

Being a Better Tourist

To start things off here's an Icelandic joke our tour guide told us today:

What do you do if you get lost in an Icelandic forest?

Stand up.

Apart from Icelandic humor, I am getting very good at being very bad at being a tourist. So here are some quick and dirty tips on how to be a better Iceland tourist than me:

1. Purchase lots of souvenirs! Because you left plenty of space in your bags, right? And when you do buy souvenirs, make sure it's not something practical like a waterproof phone case. Because, you know, it rains quite a lot in Iceland and you like living life on the edge. And you wouldn't want to be able to take selfies in the hot springs, now, would you? 


2. If you go to a museum, don't waste two hours learning really interesting things about the country you're visiting; just purchase your ticket and pick up a brochure so you can say you've been there. Nobody will be any the wiser.


3. Eat at ALL the most touristy, expensive restaurants and cafes. Don't bother with the cozy bakeries or hole-in-the-wall six-seat ramen bars or take-out Indian places that give you enough delicious food for three meals.


1. There are several different companies in Reykjavik that give tours. A couple of the major ones are Reykjavik Excursions and Iceland Excursions. They are not the same! Know which one you've signed up to tour with.


2. Check to see if your company of choice has a pick-up service from your hotel or hostel. You can usually set that up when you purchase your tour ticket but it doesn't hurt to check with them. Also, double check what time they say they'll be there to pick you up. They're usually VERY punctual.


3. If your ticket says Iceland Excursions - Gray Line Iceland, do NOT get on a Reykjavik Excursions shuttle (See tip 4a above).


4. Should you somehow find yourself on a Reykjavik Excursions shuttle, told by the driver to take a seat, and knowing the moment you sat that this is the wrong bus, it might not hurt to stop the bus driver and calmly (or not so calmly) exclaim that you believe you're on the wrong bus. I promise, your pride will recover.


5. If you've decided to just go with the flow and stay on the Reykjavik Excursions bus, don't panic. All the tour buses depart from the same bus terminal, right?


6. Wrong! Reykjavik Excursions and Iceland Excursions - Gray Line operate out of two different terminals, 7km apart. So is all hope lost?


7. Nope! When the shuttle drops you off at the Reykjavik Excursions terminal, just keep your cool and go speak with one of the nice people at the service desk. They can help arrange a way for you to get to the correct bus.


8. You made it to the right tour bus! Phew! Now just sit back, relax, enjoy the scenery, and constantly take pictures so the only way you experience Iceland's beautiful landscape is through your phone or camera lens.


5. At the Gullfoss Cantina, I only had two bowls of Kjötsúpa (Icelandic Meat Soup). But to be a good tourist you should really have about four (free refills)! Seriously, it's that good. Like, if I could only eat one food for the rest of my life, it would probably be Kjötsúpa.


6. After a long couple days of touring, you'd really like to go up to bed or, if it's still pretty early, take a three hour nap. But if you want to be a good tourist, try going down to the hotel/hostel lobby/bar. Socialize! Meet interesting people from around the world! Don't be a wimp! Expand your horizons!


7. Stay up late, drinking at the hotel or hostel bar with you new buddies. But remember that you have another tour to go on tomorrow morning at 08:30. Yay! Being a tourist!

Gullfoss. It was raining, and windy, and I was freezing.
But, wow, did that meat soup taste good after this.

All of the tips above are based on a true story. Though some have had some satire thrown in. I won't tell you which is which. But I will say this: as you may be able to tell from Tip #4 above, I once again (hypothetically) experienced a few travel hiccups. But (had it actually happened) it is much better that it happened today than, say, when I need to catch a bus to the airport. So with today's (mis)adventures, I really am starting to believe in that wonderful Icelandic phrase I mentioned in my last post: Það reddast.

I'm not sure if I'll be able to squeeze in another blog post before I get to the UK, so until next time...

Stay informed. -NLD

Living in a Fantasy World

I made it to Iceland, land of Walter Mitty and Sense8 Season 1 finale! But before I get too far into that, I'd like to outline in more detail what you can expect from these blog posts: First and foremost, they are a record of my adventures so I can reminisce years from now and smile, laugh, or cringe at memories of my travels. Secondly, they are a semi-stream-of-consciousness journal of my experiences so that I may learn from them and grow as a person and world citizen. Lastly (but certainly not least), whether you are interested in my physical and mental well-being or my online presence as a travel blogger, these posts are meant to be a (entertaining) snapshot of my life and travels abroad, thus providing a glimpse of this magnificent world we live in. My hope is that it will encourage you to explore the world for yourself, get outside your comfort zone, and take part in creating a more understanding, accepting, and peaceful planet.

That being said, I'm not going to post nothing but the wonderful experiences and alluring pictures you might see in an Instagram feed. A very large part of traveling (and life!) is making mistakes, finding yourself in uncomfortable situations, and having your world-view challenged. (But if you would rather look at the picturesque fantasy-world where nothing goes wrong and everything is beautiful, you can ignore these posts and follow me and my online character/persona, Kåri the Koala, on Instagram @circasolis and @karikoalatravels.) In reality, the world isn't all shimmering, smiling, selfies and sunsets, or perfectly positioned platters of food. There's a lot of ugly stuff, too. And it's the ugly stuff that helps us learn and grow.

So here it is: my first blog post of this trip abroad.

I started writing this post in the lobby of the hostel I'm staying at (Kex), overlooking Faxaflói (Faxa Bay), across from some of the most stunning mountains I've seen (pictured left). Now I'm finishing it in an Icelandic café, sipping a mug of Earl Grey tea. As nice as that sounds, the tea is the only thing keeping me awake after getting only 0.0 hours of sleep on the 7-hour overnight flight from Seattle to Keflavik (by no fault of the airline or passengers; I just can't sleep on planes). Though extremely tired, I left the plane excited for the day ahead: a relaxing morning at the Blue Lagoon and an afternoon of exploring Reykjavik.

My excitement hit a roadblock when I lost my ticket for the shuttle bus to the Blue Lagoon. There I was, standing on the bus, holding up its departure, frantically searching my pockets and bags while the ticket-taker stared at me. Right when I said I must have dropped it on the way to the bus, I found it stuck in the crack between my seat and the wall. Embarrassed, relieved, and sweating profusely, I handed over my crumpled ticket. Instead of letting this ordeal bother me all day (as it once would have), I let the geothermal waters of the Blue Lagoon melt away my anxiety.

I was lucky that things worked out. I'm not sure what would have happened had I not found my ticket. So, for now, I'll keep clinging to the fantasy world that is Iceland--the friendly people, stunning vistas, and setting of a major motion picture and Netflix Original Series. But I will go forward with the near-miss fresh in my mind, not letting it bother me, but letting it serve as a reminder to be careful and observant, to prepare for any possible scenario and--upon realizing that such a feat is impossible and something will inevitably go not according to plan--to say as the Icelanders say: "Það reddast," (trans. "It'll all work out in the end." or "It'll fix itself." or "You'll be saved before it's too late.")

Apart from the brief moment of panic, there have been very "ugly" bits to my time in Iceland so far. I hope it stays that way, but, eventually, the realities of traveling and life will reveal themselves. And when they do, I'll relay them as I see them; not to paint a depressing picture, but to paint a picture in contrast to the "ideal" image we'd like to see, so that a true "ideal" image may one day be reached.>

Stay informed. -NLD